Well, sure enough, as many of you may have guessed from watching the news, Machu Picchu was a no go. The day we left Cusco there were still over 1,000 people stuck up there awaiting evacuation. You wont hear me complain one bit about the whole situation, as I am extremely thankful not to have been one of the stranded backpackers. Ill be back someday, no reason or time to dwell on adventures that almost happened when fresh experiences wait around every corner.
On our last day in Cusco we booked an all inclusive guided tour of the islands on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. We paid $65, which seemed a much better deal at the time than it turned out to be. In an attempt not to give any negative aspects more time than they deserve, I will allow myself five sentences to tell you about the disappointments, then move on to tell the tale of how Lake Titicaca redeemed itself in fine fashion...
The bad- Our tour agency did not live up to their promises and left us feeling totally ripped off. The historically rich floating islands of Lake Titicaca have been reduced to tourist traps where unsuspecting visitors are fed a load of inauthentic nonsense and pressured into buying lame souveniers. It felt like a Disney Land ride. I fell asleep on the top of a boat for three hours and gave myself the worst facial sunburn in Peruvian history. It hurts and I look like a leper.
Now, for the good. The magnificent and tranquil Lake Titicaca feels like the top of the world at 12,500 feet above sea level. The immense body of water is dually owned by Peru and Boliva; according to our tour guide, the 'Titi' is property of Peru while Bolivia has proudly laid claim to the 'caca'. There are over 40 islands on the lake, though only a few are inhaited. On the Peruvian side we visited and slept on Amantani, then toured Taquile the following day. Physically, the two islands were very similar, each boasting the ruggedly astounding beauty we have come to expect from southern Peru. Though no body of water in Colorado can compare in size, the lake would not feel out of place deep in the Rocky Mountains. The snowcapped Andes that loom on the horizon make this place feel very much like home.
Early Saturday morning we bid a fond farewell to Peru and crossed the Bolivian border to the the lakeside town of Copacabana. The first things you notice when crossing into Bolivia are the friendly people and the drastic reduction in costs. Our first day I bought an alpaca sweater, cowboy hat (to protect my sunburned face), and a three course meal for around $15. We are staying in what Lonely Planet has praised as being the nicest hostel in Bolivia for a measley $8 dollars a night. Sitting high on a cliff above Copacabana, our current abode has tremendous views of the lake and more resembles a boutique hotel than a hostel. The American dollar has tremendous spending power here, which will lead to a much needed reduction in trip costs.
Todays adventure was a four hour hike on Isla del Sol(Island of the Sun), said to be the origination of the Inka bloodline. The trek was much more laid back than the Colca Canyon, a perfect opportunity to appreciate the pristine beauty of the lake that, til now, I had only seen in pictures during 6th grade geography class.
Staying true to the way of the South American backpacker, we must say goodbye to Copacabana tomorrow, after only two short days. The rest of Bolivia awaits, and we cannot wait to find out what is has to offer. Off to La Paz tomorrow, more updates soon. Thanks for reading!
Responses to posts-
Tasha- We are safe, thank you for your concern. Miss you!
Dad and Mom- Thanks for being my most dedicated blog followers :)
Tica- Thanks for your concern as well! Its great to know we have people looking out for us back in the states.
Josh- Cusco was not just the cats pajamas, it was also the dingos cufflinks and the turtles monacle as well.
Jen- Im so glad you are reading the blog! I think every five minutes about how lucky I am to be down here. This is a truly unforgettable and life changing experience. I wish you were here with me!
Jeremy- Thanks for reading my man, cant wait to see you when I get home.
Hilda- No condors unfortunately; evidently they are rarely spotted this time of year. Thanks for keeping track of us during our troubles in Cusco. Your concern is very much appreciated!
Ryan- You are my FAVORITE reader buddy, but sshhhh, dont tell any of the others :) Your writing skills are coming along very well, I am extremely impressed! Im glad to hear you dont like heights either. Now I dont feel so bad! Keep the posts coming my man and I will respond as quickly as I can!
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
The Machu Picchu Blues (sort of)
Hello family and friends!
Following a ten hour night bus from Arequipa, we made it to Cusco early Sunday morning in the middle of a heavy rain storm. Til that point, we hadn´t encountered any adverse weather of any kind, so this was our first chance to show off our cool new ponchos. However, it was also a drastic reminder that we were entering the Peruvian highlands in the middle of the rainy season, a time of year that often proves frustrating for backpackers, as 5+ hour bus delays are a common occurrence. We spent the majority of the day on Sunday shopping around for different treks to the sacred Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, only to learn that the heavy rains had rendered all available paths unpassable without serious risk. So, much to the dismay of Garreth and I, we decided to opt for the bus/train method instead, though we have promised ourselves to make up for it with a long trek somewhere in Bolivia (rainforrest probably). After a morning of haggling and bargain hunting, we finally found a young tour operator named Alfredo who booked our tour for $130 a person. Success, we would be leaving the next morning at 9am... or so we thought. Evidently the rains of the last few days had been unusually intense, the heaviest the region has seen in over 20 years. Mudslides wiped out train tracks, roads, farms, and homes, forcing the Peruvian president to declare this entire area in a state of emergency. As I write this, almost 2,000 people are stuck in the small town of Aguas Calientes(nearest Machu Picchu) with limited food, water, and lodging. Had our tour left a day earlier, we would be a part of this group, anxiously awaiting helicopter evacuation. Sadly, we may have to miss MP, though I am thankful to report that we are safe in Cusco and entirely out of harms way. Provided we experience some relatively dry weather today and tomorrow, there is hope that methods of transportation to MP will be fixed by Friday. All we can do is wait and see...
Now, for the good news. We LOVE Cusco. It is known as the archaeological capital of the Americas, and for good reason. The incredibly rich history, combined with the timeless feel of the winding cobblestone alleys, makes this city one of my all-time favorites, and definitely my favorite thusfar in South America. Needless to say, we are not bored. The adventure continues full steam ahead, with or without Machu Picchu. If we miss it, so be it, that´s the way the cookie crumbles. Our spirits are high, our souls fulfilled, and we are completely safe. Life could not be better, love you all.
Following a ten hour night bus from Arequipa, we made it to Cusco early Sunday morning in the middle of a heavy rain storm. Til that point, we hadn´t encountered any adverse weather of any kind, so this was our first chance to show off our cool new ponchos. However, it was also a drastic reminder that we were entering the Peruvian highlands in the middle of the rainy season, a time of year that often proves frustrating for backpackers, as 5+ hour bus delays are a common occurrence. We spent the majority of the day on Sunday shopping around for different treks to the sacred Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, only to learn that the heavy rains had rendered all available paths unpassable without serious risk. So, much to the dismay of Garreth and I, we decided to opt for the bus/train method instead, though we have promised ourselves to make up for it with a long trek somewhere in Bolivia (rainforrest probably). After a morning of haggling and bargain hunting, we finally found a young tour operator named Alfredo who booked our tour for $130 a person. Success, we would be leaving the next morning at 9am... or so we thought. Evidently the rains of the last few days had been unusually intense, the heaviest the region has seen in over 20 years. Mudslides wiped out train tracks, roads, farms, and homes, forcing the Peruvian president to declare this entire area in a state of emergency. As I write this, almost 2,000 people are stuck in the small town of Aguas Calientes(nearest Machu Picchu) with limited food, water, and lodging. Had our tour left a day earlier, we would be a part of this group, anxiously awaiting helicopter evacuation. Sadly, we may have to miss MP, though I am thankful to report that we are safe in Cusco and entirely out of harms way. Provided we experience some relatively dry weather today and tomorrow, there is hope that methods of transportation to MP will be fixed by Friday. All we can do is wait and see...
Now, for the good news. We LOVE Cusco. It is known as the archaeological capital of the Americas, and for good reason. The incredibly rich history, combined with the timeless feel of the winding cobblestone alleys, makes this city one of my all-time favorites, and definitely my favorite thusfar in South America. Needless to say, we are not bored. The adventure continues full steam ahead, with or without Machu Picchu. If we miss it, so be it, that´s the way the cookie crumbles. Our spirits are high, our souls fulfilled, and we are completely safe. Life could not be better, love you all.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Canyon Country
Today, the 23rd, I pass the two week mark in Peru. They say time flies when you are having fun, and, while I generally tend to agree, the opposite has been true for this trip. In many ways this has been the most memorable period of my life, filled to the brim with unique challenges. I have had so many new experiences in my short time here, it seems impossible that only 14 days has passed. There is much to be said about a lifestyle, such as this, that blatantly defies monotony. Everything is in a state of constant change- the people, the places, the food, the opportunities, the struggles- and no one day resembles the one that preceded it. There is certainly a very real and constant stress that accompanies the backpackers day to day life. Issues related to passport protection, finances, weather, bus strikes, health, and scheduling, among many others, are always on the back of my mind. Setbacks, both minor and serious, are sure to arise on occasion, but this is all part of the overall experience. All things considered, I can say with complete certainty that I have never felt more alive or fulfilled at any point in my life. Now, for the latest chapter in our adventure...
At 2:30 AM on Thursday morning, Lauren, Nina, Jess, Gareth and I awoke and sleepily made our way out to a small bus waiting outside of the hostel. Our guide to be, Pepe, greeted us with an unusual level of enthusiasm given the absurd hour. After picking up a few others from various hostels around town, we left Arequipa and drove into the night. After awhile, as the sun first began to make an appearance, we turned off of the paved highway onto a very rough dirt road that we would follow for the next three hours. We were approaching one of Peru´s wildest regions, home to both the first and second deepest canyons in the world. With the daylight came a clear view of the magnificent Colca Canyon and its surrounding landscape. As an American, hearing the word canyon, I picture the vertical cliffs of orange and red rock that characterize the Grand Canyon. The Colca Canyon is wildly different, though every bit as impressive. Referring to the land itself as well as the way in which the native people rely on it, Nina accurately compared the Colca to the movie Avatar. The inhabitants of the many small villages scattered throughout the canyon have developed a remarkable understanding of their surroundings. As Pepe informed us, nearly every type of plant found in the area has a specific use, whether it be medicinal, nutritional, or otherwise. Village people take advantage of this by gathering necessities from the wilderness, as well as developing their own terrace style farms. The way in which these people have learned to survive in such a rugged and unforgiving environment is truly remarkable. Thanks to Pepe, the group learned a thing or two about wilderness survival; I enjoyed picking wild prickly pears on my way into the canyon.
The 9-10 mile hike on the first day was, for me, as terrifying as it was indescribably beautiful. For as long as I can remember, I have had frustratingly adverse reactions to heights. I prefer not to use the term ¨afraid¨, as I am generally eager to put myself in situations where heights are involved. Regardless, when confronted by such a scenario, some sort of physiological response usually results in shaky legs and dizziness. Thus, the narrow trail and sudden death drop offs that characterized our hike into the canyon proved to be quite a challenge. I managed to make it down, slowly but surely, feeling extremely relieved to have reached the bottom in one piece. We ate lunch in a village at the canyon bed, then worked our way along the canyon walls towards our final destination. We finished the first day´s journey late in the afternoon, arriving at ¨Oasis¨, a breathtaking backpackers retreat, deep in the canyon, complete with thatch roofed huts, swimming pool, and a natural waterfall. I have never slept in a place even half as beautiful. After home cooked meals from the guides, members of various trekking groups retired early, for the next day´s challenge would require plenty of rest.
I awoke at 5 am the following morning with something to prove. I felt the hike into the canyon had, in a way, gotten the best of me. The hike out would be a chance to redeem myself. What lay ahead was a 3 mile vertical ascent, grueling by anyone´s standards, said to take anywhere from 2-3.5 hours, depending on ability. This is a notoriously serious climb, thus it is no surprise that many opt to ride mules up instead of tackling the challenge on foot. I began the hike at dawn with a promise to myself that I would give it every ounce of energy I possessed. I did just that, attacking the tight z patterned path with speed and efficiency. Once separated from the other climbers, I felt an incredible sense of solitude that motivated me to push harder and harder. I was alone in the endless silence of the Colca, the only sounds my heavy breathing and the furious beat of my heart. Andy vs. Colca. I reached the top in just over an hour and a half, a very respectable time by novice gringo standards. This experience, descending and ascending one of the deepest canyons in the world, was one of the most rewarding I have ever had, and certainly the highlight of my trip thusfar.
We leave tonight at 9pm for Cusco, Peru, which will serve as our launching point for the 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. Many travellers remember MP as the highlight of their trip. Needless to say, we all have very high expectations. Provided the weather holds up, I have no doubt that they will be met. Adios amigos, until next time...
At 2:30 AM on Thursday morning, Lauren, Nina, Jess, Gareth and I awoke and sleepily made our way out to a small bus waiting outside of the hostel. Our guide to be, Pepe, greeted us with an unusual level of enthusiasm given the absurd hour. After picking up a few others from various hostels around town, we left Arequipa and drove into the night. After awhile, as the sun first began to make an appearance, we turned off of the paved highway onto a very rough dirt road that we would follow for the next three hours. We were approaching one of Peru´s wildest regions, home to both the first and second deepest canyons in the world. With the daylight came a clear view of the magnificent Colca Canyon and its surrounding landscape. As an American, hearing the word canyon, I picture the vertical cliffs of orange and red rock that characterize the Grand Canyon. The Colca Canyon is wildly different, though every bit as impressive. Referring to the land itself as well as the way in which the native people rely on it, Nina accurately compared the Colca to the movie Avatar. The inhabitants of the many small villages scattered throughout the canyon have developed a remarkable understanding of their surroundings. As Pepe informed us, nearly every type of plant found in the area has a specific use, whether it be medicinal, nutritional, or otherwise. Village people take advantage of this by gathering necessities from the wilderness, as well as developing their own terrace style farms. The way in which these people have learned to survive in such a rugged and unforgiving environment is truly remarkable. Thanks to Pepe, the group learned a thing or two about wilderness survival; I enjoyed picking wild prickly pears on my way into the canyon.
The 9-10 mile hike on the first day was, for me, as terrifying as it was indescribably beautiful. For as long as I can remember, I have had frustratingly adverse reactions to heights. I prefer not to use the term ¨afraid¨, as I am generally eager to put myself in situations where heights are involved. Regardless, when confronted by such a scenario, some sort of physiological response usually results in shaky legs and dizziness. Thus, the narrow trail and sudden death drop offs that characterized our hike into the canyon proved to be quite a challenge. I managed to make it down, slowly but surely, feeling extremely relieved to have reached the bottom in one piece. We ate lunch in a village at the canyon bed, then worked our way along the canyon walls towards our final destination. We finished the first day´s journey late in the afternoon, arriving at ¨Oasis¨, a breathtaking backpackers retreat, deep in the canyon, complete with thatch roofed huts, swimming pool, and a natural waterfall. I have never slept in a place even half as beautiful. After home cooked meals from the guides, members of various trekking groups retired early, for the next day´s challenge would require plenty of rest.
I awoke at 5 am the following morning with something to prove. I felt the hike into the canyon had, in a way, gotten the best of me. The hike out would be a chance to redeem myself. What lay ahead was a 3 mile vertical ascent, grueling by anyone´s standards, said to take anywhere from 2-3.5 hours, depending on ability. This is a notoriously serious climb, thus it is no surprise that many opt to ride mules up instead of tackling the challenge on foot. I began the hike at dawn with a promise to myself that I would give it every ounce of energy I possessed. I did just that, attacking the tight z patterned path with speed and efficiency. Once separated from the other climbers, I felt an incredible sense of solitude that motivated me to push harder and harder. I was alone in the endless silence of the Colca, the only sounds my heavy breathing and the furious beat of my heart. Andy vs. Colca. I reached the top in just over an hour and a half, a very respectable time by novice gringo standards. This experience, descending and ascending one of the deepest canyons in the world, was one of the most rewarding I have ever had, and certainly the highlight of my trip thusfar.
We leave tonight at 9pm for Cusco, Peru, which will serve as our launching point for the 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. Many travellers remember MP as the highlight of their trip. Needless to say, we all have very high expectations. Provided the weather holds up, I have no doubt that they will be met. Adios amigos, until next time...
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Life after Lima
It has been a week since my last real entry- apologies! Here is a full update on the South American adventure...
Having dealt with almost 24 hours of travel delays, the girls finally arrived in Lima on the evening of the 14th with a surprising amount of energy. That night, Pedro welcomed them Peruvian style by making a batch of his famous Pisco Sours. Around eleven a large group of us hit the town and, as I have come to expect, had a fantastic time meeting and befriending the local people. Anyone who comes to Peru and puts forth the necessary effort will see that the people here are incredibly warm and inviting to foreigners. I hope very much that they would receive similar treatment if they ever were to venture state side.
Jess and Garreth, fellow Coloradoans and friends of Nina, arrived in Lima early the next morning. I did not know either of them prior to this trip, though it did not take long for the five of us to become a fully functional travel family. Garreth, like the rest of us, has inevitably fallen in love with South America and opted to travel with me for the duration of the journey. I am extremely pleased to have a buddy in Argentina and I have no doubt we will be great friends by the end of the trip.
On the morning of the 15th, following a hearty breakfast at a local cafe, I took the group to the cliffs of Miraflores to go paragliding. I had the pleasure of doing this two days earlier and knew the others would definitely not want to miss it. I photographed Garreth and the girls as they strapped in with instructors, launched off of the cliffs, and took advantage of coastal winds and a banana shaped parachute to float high above Miraflores. Needless to say, we all agreed that it was an unforgettable experience.
The next day we left Lima via bus for Huacachina, Peru, a tiny desert oasis town built around a lagoon (http://volker.umpfenbach.de/bilder/reisen/2006peru/high/Peru_2006_02_10_Huacachina.jpg).
The next morning we took a boat to the Islas Ballestas, known to locals as the poor man^s Gallapagos. In a brief one hour boat ride we were lucky enough to spot sea lions, dolphins, and penguins, among many others.
That afternoon we took the ride of a lifetime in a dune buggies driven by a local guide. I wish there were words to explain how exhillerating this experience was. Imagine the wildest roller coaster you have ever experienced, then give that roller coaster a heavy dose of steroids. The drivers make their living getting extreme and, as one would expect, they have gotten quite good at it.
We left Huacachina the next day (18th) at 1 PM for a 12 hour bus ride to Arequipa, our current location. Arequipas upscale design and colonial architecture give it a very European feel. This, combined with the looming presence of the enormous El Misti volcano, makes this city uniquely stunning. We spent the majority of the day yesterday exploring the 17th century Santa Catalina Monastery. SCM spans an entire city block and is guarded on all sides by a 15 foot stone wall. Wandering through its gardens and winding alleys, virtually unchanged over the past 400 years, you feel as though you have gone back in time.
The adventure team leaves tomorrow at 3AM for a trekking tour through the Colca Canyon (2nd deepest in the world), where we will see condors and relax in natural hot springs after a rigorous 7 hour descent. This is sure to be a wild experience, I will update you as soon as possible. As always, thanks for reading!
Responses to comments-
Tica- Thanks for your kind words, we are having a wonderful time indeed!
Ryan- Im officially in the mountains, and it is BEAUTIFUL. I have not seen any animals up here yet, but that is only because I am in a big city. Like I said in this entry, I will be seeing Condors on my hike into the canyon. Have you heard of them? They have a wingspan that can exceed 10 feet, which is pretty much you and I put together!
Also, there are definitely lots of rivers in the mountains here. I may be doing some white water rafting at some point, Ill keep you posted.
Hilda- Im glad you and my mom have been in contact with one another. You guys should definitely get together for dinner at some point!
Yen- Thanks for reading!!! Ill tell Nina to call you soon. Hope all is well in the Fort.
Dad and Mom- Love you, good to talk to you yesterday!
Having dealt with almost 24 hours of travel delays, the girls finally arrived in Lima on the evening of the 14th with a surprising amount of energy. That night, Pedro welcomed them Peruvian style by making a batch of his famous Pisco Sours. Around eleven a large group of us hit the town and, as I have come to expect, had a fantastic time meeting and befriending the local people. Anyone who comes to Peru and puts forth the necessary effort will see that the people here are incredibly warm and inviting to foreigners. I hope very much that they would receive similar treatment if they ever were to venture state side.
Jess and Garreth, fellow Coloradoans and friends of Nina, arrived in Lima early the next morning. I did not know either of them prior to this trip, though it did not take long for the five of us to become a fully functional travel family. Garreth, like the rest of us, has inevitably fallen in love with South America and opted to travel with me for the duration of the journey. I am extremely pleased to have a buddy in Argentina and I have no doubt we will be great friends by the end of the trip.
On the morning of the 15th, following a hearty breakfast at a local cafe, I took the group to the cliffs of Miraflores to go paragliding. I had the pleasure of doing this two days earlier and knew the others would definitely not want to miss it. I photographed Garreth and the girls as they strapped in with instructors, launched off of the cliffs, and took advantage of coastal winds and a banana shaped parachute to float high above Miraflores. Needless to say, we all agreed that it was an unforgettable experience.
The next day we left Lima via bus for Huacachina, Peru, a tiny desert oasis town built around a lagoon (http://volker.umpfenbach.de/bilder/reisen/2006peru/high/Peru_2006_02_10_Huacachina.jpg).
The next morning we took a boat to the Islas Ballestas, known to locals as the poor man^s Gallapagos. In a brief one hour boat ride we were lucky enough to spot sea lions, dolphins, and penguins, among many others.
That afternoon we took the ride of a lifetime in a dune buggies driven by a local guide. I wish there were words to explain how exhillerating this experience was. Imagine the wildest roller coaster you have ever experienced, then give that roller coaster a heavy dose of steroids. The drivers make their living getting extreme and, as one would expect, they have gotten quite good at it.
We left Huacachina the next day (18th) at 1 PM for a 12 hour bus ride to Arequipa, our current location. Arequipas upscale design and colonial architecture give it a very European feel. This, combined with the looming presence of the enormous El Misti volcano, makes this city uniquely stunning. We spent the majority of the day yesterday exploring the 17th century Santa Catalina Monastery. SCM spans an entire city block and is guarded on all sides by a 15 foot stone wall. Wandering through its gardens and winding alleys, virtually unchanged over the past 400 years, you feel as though you have gone back in time.
The adventure team leaves tomorrow at 3AM for a trekking tour through the Colca Canyon (2nd deepest in the world), where we will see condors and relax in natural hot springs after a rigorous 7 hour descent. This is sure to be a wild experience, I will update you as soon as possible. As always, thanks for reading!
Responses to comments-
Tica- Thanks for your kind words, we are having a wonderful time indeed!
Ryan- Im officially in the mountains, and it is BEAUTIFUL. I have not seen any animals up here yet, but that is only because I am in a big city. Like I said in this entry, I will be seeing Condors on my hike into the canyon. Have you heard of them? They have a wingspan that can exceed 10 feet, which is pretty much you and I put together!
Also, there are definitely lots of rivers in the mountains here. I may be doing some white water rafting at some point, Ill keep you posted.
Hilda- Im glad you and my mom have been in contact with one another. You guys should definitely get together for dinner at some point!
Yen- Thanks for reading!!! Ill tell Nina to call you soon. Hope all is well in the Fort.
Dad and Mom- Love you, good to talk to you yesterday!
Monday, January 18, 2010
On the road
Hello everyone! There is lots to report, but no time to get it all down. There have been a couple minor setbacks, but everything is going great otherwise. I will write in the next couple of days with a full update!
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Sharing with ninos y ninas
Having experienced most of what Lima has to offer during daylight hours, I have devoted the last couple of days to getting a taste of the city at night. In the process, I have learned a great deal about Peruvian nightlife and I have found that it is nothing like going out in the states. The primary difference is that the party generally starts around midnight, and often lasts into the wee hours of the morning. Last night, for example, finally came to an end around 5AM. Im not sure what it is, but young people here, including myself, just do not seem to get tired. That is, until the next day, when you are more or less non-functional. Determined not to waste even a single day, I fought the urge to sleep in this morning and instead opted to get out of the hostel for espresso and waffles at a local cafe ($3 total), as well as a thirty minute massage ($10). I also managed to hunt down a Lima Allianza futbol jersey for around $7. All in all, probably the best $20 morning I have ever had.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and practicing my espanol, which I am pleased to report is progressing rapidly. This evening I ventured to the local gellatto shop to reward myself for not letting fatigue get the best of me. As I walked and ate my gellatto, I was approached by a very poor little girl asking for a bite. There are signs all over the city warning tourists not to give money to these children. I learned from a local friend that they are almost always being forced to beg by their parents who, regretably, often make significant amounts of money putting their children to work. Anyway, there are no signs that warn against bites of gellatto. Much to the nina's delight, I gave her a big one. Not two minutes later, a small boy came up and made a similar request. I began to realize I was fighting an uphill battle when a third child approached me, so I took one last bite and gave him the rest. I may not have had my fill, but the whole experience left a big smile on my face :)
Calling it an early night... looking forward to seeing the girls in the morning!
ALSO, responses to posted comments-
Aria- Glad you are enjoying the blog. I will DEFINITELY keep the girls safe :) It really isn't as dangerous down here as it is made out to be. Not to worry my friend!
Ryan- Hey pal. I hope you didn't end up puking when you heard about the cow heart. Don't ever try it, I am certain you would not like it :) I have not seen the mountains yet, but I will be there in about a week. I'll let you know then how they stack up to our Rocky Mtns. My friends are pretty cool down here, but nowhere near as cool as you. Nobody is! Also, thanks for the tip on the sunscreen- I think you are probably right. Thanks for the post buddy , it made my day. Keep them coming!
Dr. Rhodes- Like I said in the message, I picked up a sweet Alianza jersey today from a local vendor. Unfortunately I am told that no games will be played while I am here, but I think I will be able to catch one in Argentina in late Feb. I sure hope so- it would be a crime to come down here without seeing any futbol! Also, please keep me posted on what happens with your excellence in teaching award!
My family, Lauren's family, and Nina's family- thanks to all of you for being so supportive. We cannot wait to share many great stories with you upon our return!
Monday, January 11, 2010
Mi cabeza es rojo!
Hola amigos(yep, practically fluent at this point :) )-
Having opted to buzz my hair as short as possible for this trip, I now have an uncomfortable situation on my hands, or, more accurately, on my head. The hot South American sun has scorched my dome and I am fairly certain that there is not one hat on this entire continent that fits my huge American cabeza. Thus, I am forced to live with the pain- boo hoo. Other than that, I am happy as a Peruvian clam.
Lima no longer seems as shocking and intense as it did when I first arrived. In fact, I have made so many wonderful friends that it even feels a bit like home in a weird way. I am learning a lot about the local customs and traditions, which has helped to make sense of the madness.
I learned yesterday that is is virtually impossible not to make friends in this city. Everywhere you turn there is another backpacker, many travelling alone, anxious for some quality human interaction. Yesterday, for example, I decided to venture out by myself for a guided tour of some local ruins and ended up meeting Mick, a 25 year old Australian outdoorsman in the middle of a 1 year trip throughout North and South America. He and I ended up grabbing lunch and hanging out for the rest of the day and well into the night.
Speaking of the night, it was wild. Here´s a summary- Pedro, the owner of my hostal, kicked things off by making his famous Pisco Sours for all of his guests. The pisco sour is a Peruvian drink containing pisco, lime, egg white, and sugar. It is absolutely fantastic, as was the group of fellow drinkers, which represented about 7 countries from South Korea to Columbia. After this, Pedro took a smaller group of us to one of his favorite places in Barranco, Lima´s artsy nightlife district. We drank, danced, and talked well into the night, then returned home around 2AM. Somehow I still had loads of energy at this point, so Pedro and I decided to make our way to one of the local casinos for some late night low stakes gambling. I wasn´t sure what to expect, but the place turned out to be very similar to what you would experience in Blackhawk or Vegas. After winning some nuevo soles and eating lots of miniature sandwiches, we finally decided to call it a night and took a taxi home around 4. All in all, it was a VERY fun night, and one that I will not soon forget.
My favorite part of the trip thusfar has, without a doubt, been the friends I have made. Spending time with such a diverse group is uniquely fulfilling and exactly what I had hoped for when planning all of this. Lima has been wonderful, but I am anxious for the girls to get here so that we can officially begin our adventure together.
Goodbye for now, love you all.
Having opted to buzz my hair as short as possible for this trip, I now have an uncomfortable situation on my hands, or, more accurately, on my head. The hot South American sun has scorched my dome and I am fairly certain that there is not one hat on this entire continent that fits my huge American cabeza. Thus, I am forced to live with the pain- boo hoo. Other than that, I am happy as a Peruvian clam.
Lima no longer seems as shocking and intense as it did when I first arrived. In fact, I have made so many wonderful friends that it even feels a bit like home in a weird way. I am learning a lot about the local customs and traditions, which has helped to make sense of the madness.
I learned yesterday that is is virtually impossible not to make friends in this city. Everywhere you turn there is another backpacker, many travelling alone, anxious for some quality human interaction. Yesterday, for example, I decided to venture out by myself for a guided tour of some local ruins and ended up meeting Mick, a 25 year old Australian outdoorsman in the middle of a 1 year trip throughout North and South America. He and I ended up grabbing lunch and hanging out for the rest of the day and well into the night.
Speaking of the night, it was wild. Here´s a summary- Pedro, the owner of my hostal, kicked things off by making his famous Pisco Sours for all of his guests. The pisco sour is a Peruvian drink containing pisco, lime, egg white, and sugar. It is absolutely fantastic, as was the group of fellow drinkers, which represented about 7 countries from South Korea to Columbia. After this, Pedro took a smaller group of us to one of his favorite places in Barranco, Lima´s artsy nightlife district. We drank, danced, and talked well into the night, then returned home around 2AM. Somehow I still had loads of energy at this point, so Pedro and I decided to make our way to one of the local casinos for some late night low stakes gambling. I wasn´t sure what to expect, but the place turned out to be very similar to what you would experience in Blackhawk or Vegas. After winning some nuevo soles and eating lots of miniature sandwiches, we finally decided to call it a night and took a taxi home around 4. All in all, it was a VERY fun night, and one that I will not soon forget.
My favorite part of the trip thusfar has, without a doubt, been the friends I have made. Spending time with such a diverse group is uniquely fulfilling and exactly what I had hoped for when planning all of this. Lima has been wonderful, but I am anxious for the girls to get here so that we can officially begin our adventure together.
Goodbye for now, love you all.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Making friends, eating cow heart
I am quickly realizing that my life moves way too fast down here to try and keep you all adequately updated. I will do my best to go over the highlights-
Friends- I have made four. Immediately after I wrote my last entry at the internet cafe I took a walk through the park in central Miraflores. It was then I met Benny, a Peruvian guy in his early twenties, who offered to show me a great local spot to eat some lunch. To be perfectly honest, I wasn't sure if this guy was as friendly as he seemed or if he was looking to sell my liver on the Peruvian black market. As it turns out, it was the latter. The operation was rather painful, but I'm anticipating a speedy recovery. Kidding, the guy was awesome. We ended up hanging out for a few hours checking out local spots and exchanging stories. After parting ways with Benny, I made my way back to the hostel. Upon arrival I saw Johnny(from Toronto), Donna, and Brendan (brother an sister from England) playing cards and drinking gin. I could tell these were good people, so I introduced myself, was warmly received with drinks, and have been with them ever since.
Food- CHEAP AND DELICIOUS. With Benny I drank beer and ate a two course meal of salad and ceviche, a rice dish mixed with fish and a variety of other sea creatures, all for around $7. After an early morning run along a path that followed the beach cliffs, Johnny and I visited another hole in the wall restaurant where we were served another amazing meal for around $3. Most recently I had freshly squeezed orange juice and a smal sample of grilled cow heart, $1 total. Cow heart, a local favorite, was better than expected, but I would not go out of my way to order it.
Places- The Canadian, the Brits, and myself ventured into downtown Lima for most of the day today. Compared to the beachfront Miraflores, central Lima has a much more authentic Peruvian feel. Much of the day we were the only tourists in sight. We toured the catacombs of Monastario de San Francisco, which houses the bones of over 70,000 people. Next, we went off the beaten tourist path to Chinatown (didn't see a single Asian person) and bustling outdoor goods market(where we had the cows heart). All in all, it was an excellent and exciting day. I am looking forward to Nina and Lauren's arrival. They are going to love it here :)
Friends- I have made four. Immediately after I wrote my last entry at the internet cafe I took a walk through the park in central Miraflores. It was then I met Benny, a Peruvian guy in his early twenties, who offered to show me a great local spot to eat some lunch. To be perfectly honest, I wasn't sure if this guy was as friendly as he seemed or if he was looking to sell my liver on the Peruvian black market. As it turns out, it was the latter. The operation was rather painful, but I'm anticipating a speedy recovery. Kidding, the guy was awesome. We ended up hanging out for a few hours checking out local spots and exchanging stories. After parting ways with Benny, I made my way back to the hostel. Upon arrival I saw Johnny(from Toronto), Donna, and Brendan (brother an sister from England) playing cards and drinking gin. I could tell these were good people, so I introduced myself, was warmly received with drinks, and have been with them ever since.
Food- CHEAP AND DELICIOUS. With Benny I drank beer and ate a two course meal of salad and ceviche, a rice dish mixed with fish and a variety of other sea creatures, all for around $7. After an early morning run along a path that followed the beach cliffs, Johnny and I visited another hole in the wall restaurant where we were served another amazing meal for around $3. Most recently I had freshly squeezed orange juice and a smal sample of grilled cow heart, $1 total. Cow heart, a local favorite, was better than expected, but I would not go out of my way to order it.
Places- The Canadian, the Brits, and myself ventured into downtown Lima for most of the day today. Compared to the beachfront Miraflores, central Lima has a much more authentic Peruvian feel. Much of the day we were the only tourists in sight. We toured the catacombs of Monastario de San Francisco, which houses the bones of over 70,000 people. Next, we went off the beaten tourist path to Chinatown (didn't see a single Asian person) and bustling outdoor goods market(where we had the cows heart). All in all, it was an excellent and exciting day. I am looking forward to Nina and Lauren's arrival. They are going to love it here :)
Friday, January 8, 2010
Where to begin?
Hello everyone! I landed safely in Lima a couple of hours ago and it has been a non-stop adventure ever since. As the title reads, I have no idea where to begin. This city (Lima) makes New York City seem slow. Never before have I been in such a chaotic and fast paced environment, but make no mistake, I am loving every second of it. Though I would be hard pressed to explain it, there seems to be a certain order to this madness. The traffic has probably been the most shocking element of the city thusfar. Drivers maneuver their dent ridden vehicles wherever they please without so much as a handsignal, often cutting in front of other cars with inches to spare. Meanwhile, as Lima is almost entirely devoid of crosswalks, pedestrians are left to fend for themselves against the madness of vehicular transit. As one might expect, the locals deal with this with a nonchalant attitude that can only come from experience. Myself and the other tourists can be spotted easily, as we are the ones making a nervous dash to cross the street when the opportunity arises.
I have spent the last hour or so exploring Miraflores, the oceanfront district where my hostel is located. This is universally recognized as being the wealthiest and safest area in Lima, though it is anything but tame. This city, boasting a population around 8 million, is alive with an energy that I have never felt before. I don´t quite know what to make of it yet, but I can say for certain that Peru has met my expectation for adventure with flying colors thusfar. I wish I could write more, but there is much to do and see before nightfall. That, and I am writing this from a second story internet cafe that feels more like a sauna with computers.
Back to the madness, wish me luck. Thanks for reading!
I have spent the last hour or so exploring Miraflores, the oceanfront district where my hostel is located. This is universally recognized as being the wealthiest and safest area in Lima, though it is anything but tame. This city, boasting a population around 8 million, is alive with an energy that I have never felt before. I don´t quite know what to make of it yet, but I can say for certain that Peru has met my expectation for adventure with flying colors thusfar. I wish I could write more, but there is much to do and see before nightfall. That, and I am writing this from a second story internet cafe that feels more like a sauna with computers.
Back to the madness, wish me luck. Thanks for reading!
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
2 Days Til Departure
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.- Mark Twain
I will update this blog as frequently as possible with updates on our adventure and the lessons learned from the road. I am hoping to find time for two entries per week, as well as any that Nina and Lauren choose to write themselves. For those of you who choose to follow our trip, thank you for your interest. I will make sure that our story does not disappoint.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
