Canyon Country

Today, the 23rd, I pass the two week mark in Peru. They say time flies when you are having fun, and, while I generally tend to agree, the opposite has been true for this trip. In many ways this has been the most memorable period of my life, filled to the brim with unique challenges. I have had so many new experiences in my short time here, it seems impossible that only 14 days has passed. There is much to be said about a lifestyle, such as this, that blatantly defies monotony. Everything is in a state of constant change- the people, the places, the food, the opportunities, the struggles- and no one day resembles the one that preceded it. There is certainly a very real and constant stress that accompanies the backpackers day to day life. Issues related to passport protection, finances, weather, bus strikes, health, and scheduling, among many others, are always on the back of my mind. Setbacks, both minor and serious, are sure to arise on occasion, but this is all part of the overall experience. All things considered, I can say with complete certainty that I have never felt more alive or fulfilled at any point in my life. Now, for the latest chapter in our adventure...

At 2:30 AM on Thursday morning, Lauren, Nina, Jess, Gareth and I awoke and sleepily made our way out to a small bus waiting outside of the hostel. Our guide to be, Pepe, greeted us with an unusual level of enthusiasm given the absurd hour. After picking up a few others from various hostels around town, we left Arequipa and drove into the night. After awhile, as the sun first began to make an appearance, we turned off of the paved highway onto a very rough dirt road that we would follow for the next three hours. We were approaching one of Peru´s wildest regions, home to both the first and second deepest canyons in the world. With the daylight came a clear view of the magnificent Colca Canyon and its surrounding landscape. As an American, hearing the word canyon, I picture the vertical cliffs of orange and red rock that characterize the Grand Canyon. The Colca Canyon is wildly different, though every bit as impressive. Referring to the land itself as well as the way in which the native people rely on it, Nina accurately compared the Colca to the movie Avatar. The inhabitants of the many small villages scattered throughout the canyon have developed a remarkable understanding of their surroundings. As Pepe informed us, nearly every type of plant found in the area has a specific use, whether it be medicinal, nutritional, or otherwise. Village people take advantage of this by gathering necessities from the wilderness, as well as developing their own terrace style farms. The way in which these people have learned to survive in such a rugged and unforgiving environment is truly remarkable. Thanks to Pepe, the group learned a thing or two about wilderness survival; I enjoyed picking wild prickly pears on my way into the canyon.
The 9-10 mile hike on the first day was, for me, as terrifying as it was indescribably beautiful. For as long as I can remember, I have had frustratingly adverse reactions to heights. I prefer not to use the term ¨afraid¨, as I am generally eager to put myself in situations where heights are involved. Regardless, when confronted by such a scenario, some sort of physiological response usually results in shaky legs and dizziness. Thus, the narrow trail and sudden death drop offs that characterized our hike into the canyon proved to be quite a challenge. I managed to make it down, slowly but surely, feeling extremely relieved to have reached the bottom in one piece. We ate lunch in a village at the canyon bed, then worked our way along the canyon walls towards our final destination. We finished the first day´s journey late in the afternoon, arriving at ¨Oasis¨, a breathtaking backpackers retreat, deep in the canyon, complete with thatch roofed huts, swimming pool, and a natural waterfall. I have never slept in a place even half as beautiful. After home cooked meals from the guides, members of various trekking groups retired early, for the next day´s challenge would require plenty of rest.
I awoke at 5 am the following morning with something to prove. I felt the hike into the canyon had, in a way, gotten the best of me. The hike out would be a chance to redeem myself. What lay ahead was a 3 mile vertical ascent, grueling by anyone´s standards, said to take anywhere from 2-3.5 hours, depending on ability. This is a notoriously serious climb, thus it is no surprise that many opt to ride mules up instead of tackling the challenge on foot. I began the hike at dawn with a promise to myself that I would give it every ounce of energy I possessed. I did just that, attacking the tight z patterned path with speed and efficiency. Once separated from the other climbers, I felt an incredible sense of solitude that motivated me to push harder and harder. I was alone in the endless silence of the Colca, the only sounds my heavy breathing and the furious beat of my heart. Andy vs. Colca. I reached the top in just over an hour and a half, a very respectable time by novice gringo standards. This experience, descending and ascending one of the deepest canyons in the world, was one of the most rewarding I have ever had, and certainly the highlight of my trip thusfar.

We leave tonight at 9pm for Cusco, Peru, which will serve as our launching point for the 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. Many travellers remember MP as the highlight of their trip. Needless to say, we all have very high expectations. Provided the weather holds up, I have no doubt that they will be met. Adios amigos, until next time...